Ingredient guides

Plain-English breakdowns of common skincare and product ingredients. What they do, who reacts to them, and the names they hide behind on labels.

surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: The 'Gentle' Cleanser That Can Still Irritate

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a mild, coconut-derived surfactant used in gentle cleansers, but it is still a recognised allergen for some. Here's the balanced picture.

essential-oil

Essential Oils in Skincare: Natural Does Not Mean Non-Allergenic

Essential oils are popular and plant-derived, but they are among the more common skin sensitisers. Here's the honest picture for sensitive and eczema-prone skin.

preservative

Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives: The Hidden Allergen Group

Several common preservatives slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde. Here's what they are, why they matter for sensitive skin, and how to spot them.

emollient

Lanolin: The Wool-Derived Moisturiser That Some Skin Reacts To

Lanolin is a natural emollient from sheep's wool, brilliant for dry skin but an allergen for some. Here's what it is, who reacts, and the names it hides under.

fragrance

Limonene: The Citrus Scent That's a Declared Allergen

Limonene gives products a fresh citrus note and is one of the 26 EU-declared fragrance allergens. Here's what it is, who reacts, and where to spot it.

fragrance

Linalool: The Floral Fragrance Allergen Found Almost Everywhere

Linalool is a floral scent compound and one of the 26 declared fragrance allergens. Here's what it is, why it oxidises, and who tends to react.

preservative

Methylisothiazolinone (MI): The Preservative Behind Many Reactions

Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is a common preservative and a leading cause of contact allergy. Here's what it is, where it hides, and who tends to react.

preservative

Parabens: What They Are and the Honest Take on the Controversy

Parabens are widely used preservatives that became a flashpoint in clean beauty. Here's what they do, who actually reacts, and a balanced view of the concerns.

other

Propylene Glycol: The Workhorse Humectant, and When It Bothers Skin

Propylene glycol helps products hold moisture and carry actives. Here's what it does, the difference between irritation and allergy, and who should watch it.

surfactant

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS): What It Does and Who Should Watch It

Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) is the foaming agent in many cleansers. Here's what it does, the difference from SLES, and why sensitive skin sometimes reacts.

fragrance

What 'Fragrance' Actually Means on a Label

On an ingredient label, the word 'fragrance' can hide dozens of undisclosed chemicals. Here's what it really means, who reacts to it, and how to spot it.